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Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by EpicFail, May 8, 2016.

  1. EpicFail

    EpicFail Active Member

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    So lets go over the procedure. I've powered off my printer. I place the rumba in USB power mode with the jumper, I add a jumper over the approrpriate pins to enable the programming mode, I connect the USB cable to the Rumba and my computer, once power is on and running, I pull the jumper , and wait for the tx/rx led's to flash or at least flash and stay on.. which I do not see at all.

    ... did I miss something?
     
  2. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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  3. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Only do this if you do not switch on the main PSU!

    I do not think this is necessary. But I have no experience flashing from USB. Did it once. Just plugged to my Mac flashed and good to go. No jumpers no nothing...
     
  4. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    @Alex9779 :
    Agreed. I did this once, and it is indeed plug and flash. With the Octopi plugin it is even easier.
     
  5. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    I never touch the jumpers on my rumba and I connect to and flash it just fine. Put the jumpers back in the default locations and try that.

    I am not going to say Octopi is hard but flashing directly from the USB should be as simple and loading the build in the arduino environment and sending it over. However if you continue to have issues, if you have a Raspberry Pi it might be worth trying to see if you can flash through the Pi if you still cant connect via USB after replacing the jumpers.

    I have a feeling the jumper for programming you mentioned is for flashing the actually firmware of the micro controller not the printer firmware, but without referencing anything that is just a guess.
     
  6. EpicFail

    EpicFail Active Member

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    My mistake for assuming because I had gotten the usb drivers from the wiki, I should follow the wiki instructions on firmware flashing, which was similar to how I had to do it with my old Printrboard.... Never uploaded a pre compiled .hex through the arduino interface... always used Atmel's Flip Thanks for the heads up.
     
  7. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    I haven't either I just compile and download from the arduino interface but still no need to move jumpers.

    It looks like the instructions at the bottom of the wiki are indeed flashing the firmware for the micro controller itself I believe. That's a level lower then we should need to worry about.
     
  8. EpicFail

    EpicFail Active Member

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    Hey, thanks again everybody. I managed to not break anything, though the marlin compile I got from Alex's marlin depo still left me with marlin 1.1 R3? I'm hoping that's correct. I kinda bottomed out after all of that mess and took a break , Finally getting back to this thing. I'm really hellbent to get dual material printing up and running.
     
  9. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Cannot be, all latest RCs on jenkins.alitecs.de are RC6. On that machine RC3 have never been built...
     
  10. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I also have a special versioning script up, the LCD should tell you the version upon startup, like "1.1.0-RC6" or "1.1.0-RCBugFix" (if you are curious enough to use that...)
     
  11. Chris Toast

    Chris Toast Well-Known Member

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    I havent strayed from stock (1.1 RC 3?)firmware since I got my BB. Have noticed quite a few of the oddities reported-particularly the scary tuning menu items mapped to different functions. Has that been fixed in these updates?
     
  12. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I used the tuning since RC4 which worked well... Current RCBugFix is not usable so... Go for the RC builds...
     
    Chris Toast likes this.

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