First print! OK, I haven't finished calibration and its using years-old PLA, the printer has a few temporary improvisations and hacks etc etc. And that all shows up in the print. But it's great to be making!
Good to see Volcano working, my experiments with Edge filament still have not produced a good print, which may well be due to slicer settings, using Simplify3D. I would be interested to know your impression of using Volcano with other prints as I'm assuming the benchy test print was direct from an existing gcode file?
Actually, I was having too many challenges printing, so I decided to simplify. I switched back to the v6, put the IR probe in the standard place, and will see how it goes when I get back home in January. My filament options were also a struggle. I only had old PLA and new but exotic filaments (Brassfill, Copperfill, PC..). I've ordered some PETG as an easier option, and also a frosted-black PEI sheet.
I'm back with BB, and starting to face new problems and implement new hacks. Hack-Wise, I've installed a much quieter hotted fan (Noctua), which silences the high-pitched banshee noises. Installing it required switching the fan jumper to 12V. It's inaudible, which is a big boost to the attractiveness of BB. One great simplification has been a new roll of PETG filament. It's proving much simpler to use then the old PLA or complex (copper fill, carbon finer, polycarbonate..) I received with the BB. It adheres fantastically well to the glass bed. I've had a bunch of problems with the hot-end though, including leaking filament. I damaged the heartbreak while trying to clean it all up, so after salvaging parts, my plan to implement a second hot-end is further delayed.
I love that your first print is with a volcano . I would personally consider this to be an advanced challenge that you will probably have more success with once you're confident about how the printer works with a standard v6 hotend and small nozzles. That said, your print isn't bad considering. Another thing I think needs to be said is that that raft looks huge. You can print without a raft, which you probably think is completely nuts right now. The only thing is that, with glass alone, you'll probably need something to aid adhesion, such as a glue stick or hairspray. After closing on two years now with the BB, I've tried quite a few things, and can see that the PEI-covered Aluminium heatbed, with Alex's design for cutting, was one of the most significant upgrades I made that increased the quality of life with the printer. Almost everything sticks without a problem, with no additional surface coating, and close to no cleanup process required (perhaps just a little alcohol wipedown from time to time. Before that, on the plain glass bed, the best results I had were with hairspray, which was probably the simplest to clean off every 10 or so prints, but which required the glass bed to make a trip to the sink. Also, a word of warning as you think about PETG directly on the glass. Sooner or later your glass will probably chip with that combination. It may have already. PETG seems to actually merge with the glass. If you're going to continue with PETG, consider something between the glass and the PETG, like glue stick or hairspray. Personally, I would never trust PETG on glass even with glue stick or hairspray. I've also used Print Bite, which a few others here are using. It's about half the price of the Alu bed for enough to cover the glass bed. Get a second glass bed perhaps if you're not comfortable putting it on your only bed. Word of warning with PrintBite, don't be impatient with it ever. Wait for the print to fully cool before trying to remove (well just removing) a print. If you're impatient, you'll create some small blebs in the surface, which will still print fine, but will tarnish the perfection otherwise possibly on the first layer. The Alu is more forgiving, never warps, but it more on the initial outlay.
Uhu glue with a little water and spread with a (medium bristle ) toothbrush first in small circles to get an even covering and then in continuous strokes from one side to the other to get an even thin coating works like a dream. Once dried it forms an almost clear, thin, smooth coating, works with Edge for at least ten prints, release print when cooling or when cold with a long thin bendy craft knife blade (with the blade in a handle/holder) If you use too much Uhu then you get white blobs, a little experimentation is needed to cover with the right quantity. After a number of prints a little water allows you to spread it again as some is removed where the print is and by the use of a blade.
Thanks Old_Tafr, that approach has worked well. However, I'm terribly frustrated with the BigBox. At this stsge, I've spent vastly more time diagnosing and fixing aspects of it than printing.
3D printing IS frustrating so it's not just you nor the BigBox On the other hand, the BigBox can be made to work extremely well and we still have people around who know how to get you there. Bottom line, be methodical and don't be afraid to ask for help.
IMO the key to reliable 3D printing is to refine your printer by identifying and eliminating the weak points that give you problems. Weak points are often mechanical, but may also encompass electronics and firmware. I spent a year eliminating the weak points of my Cartesian printer (an Ormerod with mostly mechanical issues), and almost 2 years eliminating the weak points of my delta printer (initially firmware and then mechanical problems). I am now at the point at which I can say "It just works" for both printers, most of the time. My SCARA printer hasn't quite reached that point, but it is close. So don't give up! Identify what is causing you grief, and fix that aspect.
I think the biggest problem I'm grappling with - and one that has caused a lot of others - is a problem with the PT100. It suddenly jumps up a few dozen or hundred degrees without explanation, which causes MAXTEMP or the PID to shut off the heater, causing the real hotend to cool and filament jam. I'm casing the cause is wiring, but I don't know what to do about it. Here's an example from Octoprint of what happened before a filament jam.
My guess would be you have a problem with the wiring of your temp sensor. You could try to PID autotune as well if you haven't done so already but the spikes look pretty pointy. If the PID tuning doesn't solve it, I'd replace the PT100 or the amplifier board for it provided you use the stock Bigbox electronics. In the end I switched to Duet electronics and have never looked back. They are the best thing money can buy hands down.
Hotend temperature shooting to zero like that implies one of few thing things, From most to least likely: PT100 is shorting out The PT100 signal conditioning board is failing Something is wrong with the connection between the RUMBA and the PT100 signal conditioner board Aliens I'd really focus on number one. The PT100 leads are ridiculously too small for an application like this. As I recall they're either single strand (solid) 28 or 30 gauge wire. Stupidly dainty, easy to break. Take a really close look at where the wires come out of the PT100 cartridge. Are bare leads exposed in a way that might enable them to touch each other or both touch the shield or heater block? I would not waste a lot of time on this. If you can't find a cause, the best use of your time and money is ordering a replacement PT100. Installing it will be a little different because E3D replaced the long instrumentation style leads (2 wires inside a braided shield) with an even more fragile but easier to work on 2-lead design. Editorial Aside: I really REALLY wish and advise E3D to get PT100s made with more robust leads. Say 24 awg. This would save users a huge amount of grief and reduce their reputation for fragile wiring.
Looks similar to an issue I had last year. One of the wires to PT100 seemed to be the problem - the resistance changed significantly as I moved the wire around. Might be worth checking that. The wire is very delicate, and needs to be secured to reduce/eliminate strain. Simplest solution if that's the issue is really to replace the PT100.
Thanks for the tips. I'm finding it very hard to diagnose the problem exactly, as temperature readings seem fine when the BigBox is cool. The massive jumps only seem to occur well into a print. I seem to be able to influence it by poking the wires, but numerous attempts to secure the connector and wiring have been unfruitful. I'm taking the advice of jfb and Ephemeris to move on, and have ordered one of these: hopefully the simpler wiring will prove more robust.
Well, I got the replacement PT100 and it does seem more solidly built than the one that came with the BigBox. A print is well underway, so it seems to be working well also.
[QUOTE = "MyMakibox, publicación: 30365, miembro: 69"] ¡Gracias por preguntar! Preparativos Tuve un par de sorpresas con el kit. Fui uno de los primeros patrocinadores de Kickstarter, pero tardé mucho en responder a ellos sobre el color de la carcasa, etc. ¡Así que lo bueno fue que recibí un híbrido V1.1! La noticia mixta fue que, en lugar del marco de perspex que esperaba, obtuve uno de madera. Entonces decidí pintarlo. Lo que me llevó a leer sobre los originales pintados de Ultimaker (también hechos de madera contrachapada), visitar talleres especializados en pintura artística y finalmente terminar con este aspecto. [ATTACH = full] 3886 [/ ATTACH] Estoy muy contento con el interior, no tanto con el exterior. He barnizado las partes de madera de la cama. Considero lijar el exterior e intentar nuevamente, pero finalmente decidí continuar con el ensamblaje. Quizás vuelva a pintar el exterior en otra ocasión. Mi Bigbox es un V1.1, y he comprado actualizaciones para los nuevos motores de tornillo de avance y eje silencioso del eje z. Tengo curiosidad por saber si vale la pena ir a Titán también. ¿Hay algo malo con el modelo anterior? No tengo una impresora que funcione en este momento, así que retrasé el Titan y todas las otras actualizaciones que requerían impresiones. La asamblea hasta ahora ¡Ha sido una experiencia mixta! El primer paso fue involucrar a mi esposa para superpegar las trampas de nueces. Lo hicimos mientras chateábamos, y ha resultado ser un tiempo bien empleado. Debo mencionar que mi principal punto de referencia es el Makibox. Puedes leer sobre mis experiencias aquí: http://mymakibox.blogspot.com/ En comparación con el Makibox, el Bigbox está muy por delante en términos de calidad de los componentes. Construyendo los primeros componentes, quedé muy impresionado. Las partes impresas son hermosas, y la forma en que combinan mecánica, corcho, metal, etc. es excelente. Debo mencionar que mi principal punto de referencia es el Makibox. Puede leer sobre mis experiencias aquí: http://mymakibox.blogspot.com/ Fue una impresora notoriamente terrible y un proyecto de financiación colectiva, y el desafío para la mayoría fue hacer que funcionara. En comparación con el Makibox, los componentes BigBox gritan calidad y cuidado. Las piezas encajan juntas sin requerir fuerza o papel de lija. Después de un gran comienzo, comencé a confundirme de maneras que me resultarán familiares. El brazo loco de la extrusora no parecía influir en las instrucciones. Los códigos de los controladores paso a paso en los diagramas no coincidían con los suministrados. Hay algunas ocasiones en las que sentí que un paso complicado podría haberse hecho con mucha más facilidad en una etapa anterior del montaje. El texto se vuelve más y más escaso, y las fotos se vuelven menos claras. Entonces las instrucciones se sienten un poco desiguales. Tal vez soy el último en hacer una asamblea, por lo que no parece que valga la pena hacer sugerencias. (Más por venir, aquí está el estado de juego) [ATTACH = full] 3887 [/ ATTACH] [/ QUOTE] Es impresionante, felicidades
