Have problems with my titan aero jamming on high retraction prints. it stops on the part of the print which are the fine detail part where it spend most of the time in retraction. I can cut down the odds by setting the retraction to 1mm or less which causes stringing. ( tried adjusting the tension from too loose to too tight + Temp 190 to 220c) When I pull out the filament there is a ball on the end, which is why it stopped going into the hotend. Being a homemade cr10s 4.5 s printer before I put it down to a Z problem , but after a second rebuild I know my printer will print like glass and the BLtouch say it`s repeatable down to .002 error.
Hi Peter, It sounds like you are using a retraction length that is too long, the maximum retraction length you can use with the Titan Aero is 2mm, anything longer than this will risk pulling molten plastic into the heatbreak where it has the chance to cool and potentially stick to the inside of the heatbreak where it can prevent any new filament from being fed into the melt zone. If you find that you are still experiencing stringing at 2mm then you should reduce the printing temperature and start with a retraction value of 0.5mm and increase it incrementally up to 2mm. Repeat the process if necessary. If these steps do not stop stringing, then it may be that your filament is the issue, make sure it's not a low-quality filament, consider changing brands and make sure it is dry, as a filament that has absorbed moisture will result in really stringy prints.
Hi Daniel, it's was the first time I got this to print "thingiverse thing:315870 Ultimate Torture Test" by using a sub 1mm retraction setting. I know that 1.5mm will jam, so I know that 2mm will jam if there are many retraction. After dropping the retraction down to 0.8mm and using the lower temp it looks better , less string . if I can get reliability , I can work on quality later !!!!!
Hi Daniel , I'm using 0.8mm with a temp of 200c , the Torture Test look not too bad, a little string on the stringing test , but much better than before. The problem is now I'm having problems with the outer walls now have a gap I`ve not seen before. 75x75x75 2mm think walled test cube It could be another problem unrelated or I need more tension on the gears now the filament is on the cool side.
Is the under extrusion only on that one corner? Yes only on one corner !!! ( the last corner ? ) I`m rebuilding my 3d printer slowly , so waiting to fit a glass bed and use a silicon heater , just using blue tape cold now. Tried printing a few tests with the filament on the hot side 215c and didn't see any problems with the corner then. I didn't think my bed was this bad .
It looks like you are having issues with the start and stop part of the layer, I would recommend looking at the coasting slicer setting. This will allow you to control the amount of plastic being extruded at the start/end of the layer to prevent over extruding it looks like you may have coasting set a little too high, your previous hotend may have been more prone to stringing.
Make sure the extruder has a tight grip on the filament. That alone solved many quality issues for me.
I know it`s not coasting because that is not switch on , they say 1 and a half to 2 turn and I`ve set it to 3 turn which is tight , but I don`t think over tight. I checked my e steps again and it was miles off , 90mm for 100mm , but the figure I`ve put in to get a full 100mm is 495 step per mm which is way high from the docs.
