On my Wanhao i3 v2.1, with ramps 1.4 upgrade, latest Marlin rc-bugfix firmware, bltouch auto leveling, microswiss hotend, upgraded extruder gear, thicker build plate, glass bed with PEI sheet, external Mozart for the hotbed, and octoprint. Bridging with pet-g was working... until I did the upgrade to the Titan Aero. What works: First layer Adhesion Walls X, Y,and Z calibrated prints measure within .01 'm Infill Top layer Whenever I go to bridge, it just doesn't. LOL On the 20'm shallow test cube: It starts to bridge, when the extruder finishes the bridged extrusion, it doesn't stay connected and then stays stuck on the extruder as it attempts to do the next bridged extrusion. If I put enough layers, it will eventually bridge the entire top but it looks really bad and bumpy. Tried cura and simplify3d to create the code file. I've tried: Extrusion multiplier Different fan speeds Different hot end temps Different speeds Retraction settings Skin overlap Top pattern Alternate extra wall Many... Many...Many...Many iterations of different settings from above. My thoughts are that the settings within cura and simplify 3d are more tied to the hotend/extruder than anything else. Could some of you please post your cura or simplify3d profiles and which filament type it's for? Thank you, -ren
I had a hell of a time bridging with edge and any petg originally, for me it was all about fan speed and fan shroud design. Could it be that now your running a shorter system your fan is no longer blowing/cooling the right area? I had a shroud that blew strair fown and it was useless for bridging, it now blows from both sides at the nozel snd down slightly. Now i have no issues, even with a volcano hotend.