Titan Aqua 3mm broken bearings

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Tim Schneider, May 27, 2020.

  1. Tim Schneider

    Tim Schneider Member

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    Hi i just ran into trouble with my titan aqua. I had the problem of finding the right retract value because of massiv jamming and stringing, first i thought it's because of wrong settings, tried everything from 0.0 to 5.0mm in 0.1mm steps, no luck, then played with the retract and unretract speed - that only changed the grinding behaviour of the filament but didn't fixed the jamming/stringing issue, then I reduced the hotend temp to the lowest possible value while still be able to push filament through the nozzle - that helped a little but the extrusion performance was not exisiting anymore. After all that I just tried to recap whats going on ...

    I have a
    3mm 24V Version aqua cooled Titan with Vulcano Hotend and
    0.8mm nozzle and used
    PLA and PETG as Filament.

    Then I remembered myself of a situation where I was not getting enough filament through the nozzle (like 20 mm³/sec) and increased the pressure on the idler wheel (the spring loaded nut, opposite to the hobbed gear) that fixed the performance issue, but shotly after the jamming/stringing issue arised and after a few days of printing another issue appeared, now the titan aqua is making a squeaky noise while extruding. I read about problem with the bearings and ordered new bearings and replaced the old onces, which where indeed broken. But I didn't connect the preassure/load on the hobbed gear with the broken bearings - for now. After replacing the bearings everything was fine again, but just for a few hours, literally just for a 200% benchy (4 hours print) - mid print the jamming/stringing started again and the bearings are broken again.

    I think there a two different design problems leading to that problem:
    - the one-sided bearing arrangement of the shaft, and
    - that you are able to introduce to much load on the idler wheel with the spring loaded screw in the 3mm version that the bearings can break

    So now i'm left with two different options:
    - using high throughput with high load on the hobbed gear (not risking grinding on filament) and replacing the bearings after every print
    - or using low throughput risking filament grinding mid print (print time for me is 2-4 days in 800x400x400mm print area) due to low load on hobbed gear but saving the bearings

    do you have any suggestions?

    here you can find a video from the play of the hobbed gear
    https://www.udrop.com/byb/VID_20200526_164736.mp4
     
  2. Tim Schneider

    Tim Schneider Member

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    I've put some more time in that, and it looks like e3d sells different types of hobb gear - which I guess is directly related to the bad performance of my first titan aqua (directly from e3d webshop) - now I have two more titan aqua around (one from e3d webshop, one from a reseller) and they are more or less different in terms of bearings and hobb gear.

    The first one (bought from e3d webshop in 2019) you directly see the small grooves

    WIN_20200610_12_29_36_Pro.jpg

    the second one
    WIN_20200610_12_18_16_Pro.jpg

    and the last one
    WIN_20200610_12_18_41_Pro.jpg

    i don't know which one is better, maybe someone from e3d can clarify that?!

    The bearings and the idler are also different
    WIN_20200610_12_21_45_Pro.jpg

    the pin is flat on both sides or round and the surface of the bearing is some how (bad) ?
    WIN_20200610_12_19_29_Pro.jpg

    can someone help me on that?

    Tim
     
  3. JW3d

    JW3d New Member

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    Hi Tim, did you get to the bottom of this? I have the 1.75mm mirrored version of the aqua and I suspect my bearings are bad as I have some play in the hobb shaft.

    Cheers Jim
     

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