IN DEVELOPMENT Titan Dual Direct Drive Design

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Chase.Wichert, May 10, 2016.

  1. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, I just put up the Dual Direct Drive design on Thingiverse, IT IS NOT FINISHED.. before you get too excited. I am still working on it, but I figured I would just keep updating that page to make it easy to follow. I am getting further without too many issues. Let me know if you see anything glaring, that I might have missed.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1554356
     
  2. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Very exciting! Being able to use a standard V6 and a Volcano at same time would be awesome.
     
    JohnEsc likes this.
  3. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Looking great so far! Do you still have the full build volume or do you think we'll loose some?
     
  4. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    I will be modifying the x idler and xmotor mount parts to allow for the full or as close to full as possible.
     
  5. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    Awesome !!

    As yet build volume isn't my greatest concern, but using a standard V6 and Volcano is just what I need.

    Positioning of the print cooling fans is a consideration, and space for the (due soon?) silicone heat shroud/enclosure/shield would be good.

    Pancake motors are assumed.

    I am still running quite happily on the originally supplied Marlin firmware....... will this work for the V6/Volcano? (The SixCano)

    I have ordered dual Titan and waiting, so even less concerned about delivery now as I will wait for your X-Carriage designs.

    Ease of removal of the complete hotend from both Titan (as already shown on the publicity video) AND from the X-Carriage would be the icing on the cake (with cherries on). This would allow swapping the complete assembly, without dismantling the heat-sink, heat-break, heater block and nozzle. I would simply have different complete assemblies with different size nozzles available to just swap out. Only height adjustment (ok nozzle one and two alignment too) would be needed plus a quick 9 point levelling, before commencing printing.
     
  6. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Really like the look of this.

    Clever!
     
  7. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

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    One possible daft question, do you think it would be possible using your Titan model to actually 3D print out a mirrored Titan casing such that the axis would align? All the other parts of the Titan (bearings, gears/hobbled bolt, leaver etc.) could be used in the mirrored printed case? Obviously if that was possible I guess approval would need to be sought from E3D that this is ok to do.

    Or do you think that the offset of the nozzles would not reduce print area by much?
     
  8. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    We were having a similar discussion about this on G+ too. I think if you just reprinted the case, all the internals of the Titan can be used, so it wouldn't be as if you didn't still need to buy the Titan to make this happen.
     
  9. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I'm sure it would help, I may go that route as another option if this way doesn't provide the full range, if it does provide the full range, then I don't see why you would want to go through the trouble and plus it would look funny lol
     
  10. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    Here is my initial attempt at the new x_idler. I still have to put on a place for the end stop to hit, but I don't have a model of the end stop so, I have some investigating to do. Also I am hoping to find a good way to make the Y axis bearing clamp a two piece so you don't have to take the Y axis rods off, hopefully ever, because that sucks!
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    Okay, another update.

    Here is the IR sensor mount, basically one of Greg's just sized for this design. Still allows for some adjustment, but doesn't need very much since you can adjust the extruders so much.
    IR_Sensor_Mount.PNG

    I am attempting to provide cable channels, that will take the IR cable and put direct it to the rear, should look very clean and keep everything tidy. The same thing is done for the end stop cabling below.
    IR_Sensor_Mount2.PNG
    More channeling, that has two zip tie points and will direct it up and over the rear x axis rod.
    IR_Sensor_Mount3.PNG
    Simple mount for the end stop, and you can see the start of the cable channel.
    end_stop.PNG

    Cable channel. end_stop2.PNG
    Same rear cable channel as the IR one on the opposite side. end_stop3.PNG The end stop, similar to E3D design, allows for large adjustment to get everything right. This design let's the entire carriage move far enough to the left that the right extruder is on 0, plus a little extra room.
    x_carriage_end_adjustable_end_stop.PNG
     
  12. Syko_Symatic

    Syko_Symatic Well-Known Member

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    This is looking great @Chase.Wichert. I can't wait to see the finished product. Really like the cable channeling idea, it's one of my main pet hates with the current design.
     
  13. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Wow! This is looking better and better. Can anyone explain how the extruder heights are adjusted? Looking at the the renderings isn't telling me that story.
     
  14. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

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    I believe if you look at the 3rd image down you will see 2 bolts that go into 2 grey cylinders in the top right hand corner of the image, these cylinders I believe are magnets, the screws can be used to move each head up/down independently and the magnets allow for quick release, at least thats how I saw it was when first posted on Google+.
     
  15. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    Ray is correct, you can also see it here
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1554356

    There are a lot more images
     
  16. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    Okay here is my attempt at a way to make it easy to take on and off. There are more images below with the bearing and clamp.
    X_Idler Finished4.PNG
    Basically the clamp slides in from the side and gets locked into position between the x idler and the bearing, and then when you tighten down the m4 screws in the front it should clamp down.
    X_Idler Finished3.PNG
    I had to make the x axis rod holes go all the way through the back so you could install this, as the locking mechanism wouldn't allow you to simply pull the x axis assembly straight down off of the y axis rods. So this should all you to slide the rods completely out of the x motor mount then pivot the x idler down to remove the rods, the rotate the x idler up upwards and it should come off easily.
    X_Idler Finished5.PNG
    Here she is... kind of looks like a star wars droid...
    X_Idler Finished.PNG

    For now I believe this design is finished. Let me know if you guys see anything that might need to change.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

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    Its looking really good, my only comment (and this is only an observation rather than something I have extensive knowledge in) is that in the areas I I have highlighted in red, is it a good idea to have such sharp angles, wouldn't that introduce a stress/fracture point? Maybe instead don't have the triangle cut out (for want of a better description)?

    Screen Shot 2016-05-13 at 23.09.18.png
     
  18. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    I like where you are going, but have a look at RichRap's pics on G+ where he has used tie wraps to grab the bearings to reduce the number of printed items and to provide a simple engineering that works.
     
  19. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Here's something for testing....

    I reckon that the stiffness of the whole assembly is paramount and therefore that the X-rods should have as little wiggle or flex as possible. Wondering whether the holes that the rods slip into should not be optimised for contact surface and therefore wrap all the way around (not be elegantly cropped on a sweeping diagonal) and maybe even protrude further into the build space?
     
  20. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    It is also far more difficult to insert a rod into a sloping hole, than it is to a flat face. Plus the leverage used applies in such a way as to split the part.
     

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