I attempted in Aria dragon with edge last night. Before the attempt I ended up with a multiplayer of .88. I also my first calibration print was at 215, when I went to remove the print, it started to come off the bed like a slinky there seemed to be little to no inter layer adhesion. \ My second calibration I printed at 225 and it seemed much better layer adhesion, and I was able to nail the multiplier. Anyway when I attempted Aria, in general the surface finish was awesome but there were hundreds of goobers and strings between the wings and such. My question is has anyone been able to print edge goober free and still maintain good layer adhesion going to run more trials this evening if I get a chance, I am using the same retraction settings currently I had for XT. (sorry I do not have any pictures of the raw print)
I'm working on that now, I have the same problem. I turn on wipe and perform retraction during wipe to see if that helps anything.
It didn't add hardly any time, when I mean wipe, the nozzle continues to move along the perimeter for a specified distance all while the retraction is taking place. And I believe they are like 120? I dunno whatever was default with the profiles.
I don't give much on wiping. The nozzle is moved above an already laid line of the same layer, so if the extrusion worked normal then the line is just a high as the bottom of the nozzle. So IMHO it is like driving the nozzle over a plane fully touching it. So no filament can flow out of the nozzle. But the intention of wiping (moving the nozzle without extruding or even while retracting) is to get rid of the filament that want to come out of the nozzle itself. Imagine a water bottle with the open side pressed on a flat surface, not water comes out, you can move it around and no water comes out. I experimented some days with wiping to get rid of the z scar and drips on travel moves and stringing and those nasty blobs that build on outer surfaces when the nozzle crosses them coming from the outside. But even wiping movements of several centimeters (!) had no noticeable effect. I described it a day ago in another post, wiping would make sense if you drive the nozzle over infilled space where there are gaps the "loose" filament from the nozzle can drop in, then on the next infill line it is wiped away and so on and so on like a mini ooze wiper. This would help a lot IMHO but not the way it is implemented at the moment...
If you look at my print with Edge at the start of this thread you will see there was no apparent snot drops during this print and it has behaved well with the settings used. I wish I could say the same for CF20!
As I didn't read them my expectations were not raised! My Edge print was excellent and the CF20 is not too bad now as I found two problems that had appeared out of nowhere: 1) The nozzle had loosened so was leaking filament at the rear so difficult to see, so a reheat and tighten sorted the worst dribbling 2) The bed levelling was poor and I discovered a strange effect when I checked the nozzles' levels i.e. the level between them changed from one end of the X-axis to the other!!! The whole head was shifting in height over the range. I found the culprit or culprits were the X rod clamps on the Y carriages, all of them were loose, despite having lock washers and being checked carefully during commissioning. All now tight and levelling is working. The change in levels was causing the nozzle to scrape filament off the previous level. With CF20, it leaves a slight furry surface and I suspect the little carbon hairs enhance the pickup ability of the nozzle.
I am using Alex's FFF and have and use the Colourfab nGEN profile in the process. I tweaked the first layer to my layer height i.e. 0.2mm with no multiplier and left everything else as is with 1.5 retraction and 0.25 lift 220C, 75C, cooling starting at 10% on 3 and rising to 40% by 9, scripts unchanged, other than correcting for mirrored use (nozzle 1=nozzle 0 etc.) and speeds (50mm/s) as set. I use PVA juice on the bed and auto-levelling is enabled. The PVA juice is 5:1 water to PVA wood glue, with a drop of washing up liquid to aid wetting, and coated very sparingly on a slightly warm bed using kitchen paper but first having thoroughly cleaned the bed with methylated spirit; I clean and re-apply before each print. I am still coming to grips with S3D, having abandoned it in the early days because it was/is too fiddly but it has started to grow on me . . . like a wart.
Yes Alex, I had pulled the wrong one and had carried out changes before I discovered so just changed the nozzle definitions. On reflection it would have been easier to download the correct one!