Trouble printing after e3d Upgrade (bowden)

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by DiscusZ, Apr 21, 2018.

  1. DiscusZ

    DiscusZ Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2018
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    am having one hell of a TIME since upgrading my anet A8 to a true E3D V6 hotend. All calibration prints I do are great, dimensionally sound, good layer adhesion etc. but I do and print some things and they fail, I can see layer issues , etc. I am at a loss as to why I have printed a few things that are perfect (X Belt tensioner, it is flawless), towel hangers great. I tried doing a new fan duct for part cooling (tried 3 times) failed 50% if the way. I tried a Benchy. it looked awesome, until it hit 51% then it went off the rails

    I need ideas :)

    it seems when I get to gaps (holes, windows, etc) is when the print fails. I printed 3 solid parts (2 table table Ipad holders worked great, and 3 towl holders that go over the door, they turned out great.

    What am I missing? am I maybe retracting too much and getting under extrusion?


    Thanks
     
  2. jfb

    jfb Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2016
    Messages:
    135
    Likes Received:
    29
    Too much retraction is certainly worth checking.

    From the wiki...https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Troubleshooting
    Misconfigured Retraction
    Choosing slicer settings is a bit of an art and everyone has their particular preferences as to how they print. The following guidance is to help people avoid common configuration pitfalls.

    A common issue is massively excessive retraction distances. In direct configurations retraction of 0.5 to 2mm is all that should be needed for ooze-free prints. We use around 0.6mm for ABS that oozes very little, and 2mm for the very floppy flexible filaments that like to ooze a great deal and need a good tug to pull back the soft filament from the melt zone. For PLA we stick with retraction settings no higher than 0.8mm.

    Bowden configurations are more tricky as the amount of retraction needed is dependent on factors such as the length of tubing and the stiffness of the filament has more impact on the needed retraction. A good starting place is around the 2mm mark, which you can increase if required.

    Retractions of 5mm or more are troublesome as they pull hot filament up into the cold areas of the hotend where they can freeze, adhere and jam. You should be able to print at both very high, and very low speeds with your E3D hotend, but you may need to adjust your temperatures. Very high speeds will require higher temperatures in order to melt the filament quickly enough as it passes through the hotend. Very slow prints do not require as high a temperature.

    Personally, I go for the least retraction I can get away with, typically around 0.8 for each of my printers (i3 clone and bigbox dual).

    Other related settings could be things like Extra Length on Restart (Slic3r) or Extra Restart Distance (S3D). Change one thing at a time and test each one - may be worth creating a small model just to test this (use less filament and time for each test). If you still can't solve it with that, then try posting a couple of photos - there are lots of people happy to try to help. My own experience is that no one solution works quite the same way on any two printers, so there is a always a bit of experimentation involved for your specific printer.
     
  3. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    794
    Likes Received:
    117
    Take pictures of the prints and post them. My first thought without see the prints is your extruder. Could it be slipping or grinding filament?

    Also did you heat up the v6 assembly to 280 and do a final 1/4 turn on the nozzle?
     

Share This Page