Twicx's Dual E3D Direct-Drive Extruder

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by twicx, Mar 6, 2014.

  1. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    Yes, the Rumba. I have 5 Rambo cards so I get confused. Plus I am a senior citizen which explains a little.
     
  2. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    yeah i don't really know anything about relays though. I don't know how i'd connect them up or which one to get etc
     
  3. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Layer 1 settings for the first print on ABS with the new bed. Very exciting stuff!
     
  4. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    IT LIVES!
    GREAT JOB!
     
  5. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    ok so little minor update, in the traditional fashion of this project, once one problem is fixed, another one arises. The hot end wasn't heating up, and the thermistor was reading 392 degrees. So i replaced the thermistor, and really perculiarly, I found a split in the hot end heater wire?! so i repaired that (considering it'll be replaced soon anyway).

    The bed is working fantastically. Literally, this is a €20 mod that anyone who wants a beefier heated bed should do. Mega thanks for the help and advice on that one guys.

    As for printing, well i was having more difficulty getting the ABS to stick and not curl. Right now, it's on a 95 degree bed, with fructis extreme hold, hot end at 230, and printing very slow with no fan. it's looking good, but i wont get my hopes up just yet. It would want to get at least 50% done before i get excited. So close yet so far!
     
  6. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    I have tried the Garnier Fructis #5 and have found that it does not work as well as Aquanet Super Extra strong hold.
    Good Job on the bed!
     
  7. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    can't get aquanet over here though. :/
     
  8. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    Oh, I think you told me that. Sorry I forgot. Then Garnier #5 is it then.
     
  9. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    didn't you mention before that you don't use brims or raft? You just do 230C for the head and 80-90C for the bed, with hairspray and a slow speed?
     
  10. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    I do you a brim of 2 mm sometimes, it can help hold it down a little. I have never used a raft. Not necessary with the
    Aqua Net. I run my bed at 90c for ABS and 60c for PLA.
     
  11. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    ugh!!! I'm having more problems with the thermistor at the hot end. Every 2-3 mins, the temperature reading in repeteir drops to 0C, and it has to be reset.

    Seriously, Felix stock hardware sucks.
     
  12. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    im now so annoyed with the old hot end that I'm taking a sander to it to retrofit it to take one of the e3d ones. if that doesn't work, I'll just get the parts printed elsewhere.
     
  13. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    The one from E3D should work, they are the best!
     
  14. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    its just a matter of getting it to fit. :/
     
  15. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    so while I was disassembling the extruder, I noticed that the reason the thermistor was freaking out was because it was shorting off itself. Probably should have checked that first. Anyway, that's with a 4mm brim, layer 28 of 80 (which is about 20 layers more than it's gotten before without curling). Finally, it's looking good. I went with the tresemme strength 5 mega freeze hold super glue hair spray, or whatever it's called, and it seems to be holding. Pity it feels so horrible in my actual hair, but I have fructis now, so all is well.

    In any case, i think i've now found a configuration that works (FOR ME AT LEAST) for printing ABS:
    - 4mm brim
    - 95C bed
    - 235C hot end
    - No cooling fan
    - Tressemme number 5 freeze hold mega white can super death grip hair spray on bed, and quite a decent layer of it

    I'm off to have a cuppa and watch house of flying daggers in the hope that the rest of it will print without incident.
     
  16. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    Good job again. Now can you keep it running? :lol:
     
  17. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    well it's been about an hour since something has gone wrong.

    so no, probably not. :lol:
     
  18. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    You crack me up! :lol:
     
  19. Josh

    Josh Administrator
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    I have just caught up on this thread - really nice work twicx. I am very impressed at how professional your heated bed looks. How did you calculate what thickness of track you were going to use to get the correct resistance?

    What do you need printing? If you are getting another HotEnd, I can print the parts for you and pop it in the box with your HotEnd as a favour.. PM me if that would be helpful..

    How are you getting on with printing ABS? We print it a LOT, all our ducts are ABS. The settings we use are:

    A very warm room (23 - 25C) with no breezes
    Bed at 135C with Boots own brand, Maximum Hold Hairspray
    HotEnd at 235C

    Josh
     
  20. twicx

    twicx Well-Known Member

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    Cheers Josh! The copper was 35um thick, but once I cut the copper to the size of the board, I could estimate it from a practice trace on the off cut. If I had actual stripboard, you can estimate it from the resistance of one track, then just solder them together.

    I have the 2 e3d hot ends already, but just not the carriage for them! Problem is, I can't really print it in PLA. I normally print in PLA, once this is built, I'll never go near ABS again, it's too troublesome for my liking. Even still, PLA gets soft around 80C, and even though it's just the top of the hot end that's held to the carriage in my design, i doubt it would be cool enough to suit the PLA, even if it is cooled in the middle. But I do appreciate the kind offer.

    I'm getting on ok, although in the end last night, it was a feed issue, and the last few layers didn't print. Also, i may need to redesign it. Last night it printed with a fill density of 0.3 (so very tiny honeycombs) and it felt too flimsy to hold the motors. So actually, your print settings may be the answer.

    I've been printing at 95C, hot end at 240 for first layer, and 220 after that. So I'll try 110C and 240C for the whole lot. It's sticking to the bed just fine, but I think i need to reduce the layer height too, maybe to 0.2, with full fill, so it has a better density and is hopefuly strong enough for the motors.
     

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