V1.1 STL files problems

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Alex9779, Apr 12, 2016.

  1. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Did anyone have problems slicing the V1.1 STL file from the file repository Greg uploaded?

    I wanted to print the Titan adaptor, and my print stopped because of a THERMAL RUNAWAY.
    I realised that a layer near the base of the part was sliced as a bridge pushing the fan up to 80% accroding to my settings which was fatal so near to the bed and on a so "huge" flat layer.
    I did another export from 123D to STL then the file was sliced ok.
    I sliced at 0.2mm with 0.4mm nozzle...
    Didn't print that file yet again.

    Now I decided to print the hotend part first (point_one_hotends) and there again:
    Part.PNG
     
  2. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Curious, what you are printing it in? I'm trying to decide what plastic to use?
     
  3. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    The hi temp parts I am using my 2.85mm Innofil silver ABS on the UM2. Want to get rid of all the 2.85mm filament and finally switch the UM2 to 1.75mm.
    The low temp, currently the hotend part is on the BB, in Colorfabb XT black.
     
  4. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    what's your thought on nylon (bridge or 910)?
     
  5. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I have the Taulman Bridge in 2.85 for my UM2.
    Used it once to print replacement gears for my daughter's toy. Went pretty good. Wasn't that hard and the gears were pretty small.
    The toy is working again so "mission accomplished"...
    Just for so "simple" parts as the carriages I think it would be oversized.
    Using XT just because I get the best prints with it so far. PLA/PHA has so much blobs, haven't managed yet to get a nice vertical surface finish.
    Waiting on my order with HT...
     
  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Initially I bought the nylon to print main gear for my RC helicopters....
     
  7. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    One thought @Alex9779. In slicing a few things recently, I saw some odd behaviour from S3D, which went away when I changed to a different nozzle size. Just a thought for a parameter to fiddle with that you might not have considered.
     
  8. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Isn't this something you can control from S3d?

    You can change the fan setting during bridge and bring it down to something reasonable.

    You can manually add support material, and/or increase support material density, and/or use the excellent feature which enables low density support at the bottom, then layers of high density support just before the part.

    By increasing the amount of support you can effectively stop it from being a "bridge" and so what the fan is doing is of no importance.
     
  9. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    All you said is right but at this point in the part there should not be a bridge. And not nearly a whole layer.
    I just exported the parts again from 123D CAD and used the new STL without that issue and without changing any setting in the slicer...
     
  10. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    I sliced and printed it without issue on my BigBox.

    Printed in PLA as Greg said this would be fine. Have printed the HT parts in Proto-Pasta HT PLA which I need to cure tonight as the PC-ABS wouldn't stick to the bed at all. Need to put some tape on it maybe??

    Anyway, none of that helps with your issue. But I sliced with S3D exactly as I would any other part.
     
  11. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I realized with other models I had that issue that the smallest difference in layer height or nozzle size could solve the issue.
    I just wanna say that it is always good to scroll the layers up and down in feature view to see if there are any slicing errors prior sending the file to the printer...

    For bed sticking I always go with the my Tesa glue stick. Probably nearly the same as he UHU for nearly everything...
     
  12. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    Were you on 0.25mm, the recommended layer height?

    I had some hair spray on the bed from previous PLA before I switched to the ABS and that was no good so don't know if UHU will help?
     
  13. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    0.2
     
  14. Syko_Symatic

    Syko_Symatic Well-Known Member

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    @PsyVision Really struggling with ABS as well. I can not get it to stick.... frustrating!!
     
  15. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I used two alternatives for ABS:
    1. ABS slurry
    2. Glue stick
    Both worked pretty well.
    Because glue stick is easy to apply I mostly use that now.
    For ABS slurry I printed an "ABS puck" I found I think on Youmagine. You drop a little Acetone on the glass then wipe it around with the puck until you feel it is dissolving. It is a bit tricky to get a nice surface coating but the result after the print is the best. The part literally pops off the plate when cooling and the surface finish of the part is amazing because the ABS on the plate melts with the printed...
     
    Syko_Symatic likes this.
  16. Syko_Symatic

    Syko_Symatic Well-Known Member

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    The glue stick just does not seem to work for me. I have the UHU sticks that E3D recommend but it still warps. I am using my Wolfbite currently but although it works it is not cheap.
     
  17. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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  18. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    I use the wolf products too. It always sticks (well sometimes so well I have to use the warm water soak to get it off the bed for big flat things)
     
  19. Syko_Symatic

    Syko_Symatic Well-Known Member

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    @Henry feldman What bed prep prior to the Wolfbite application do you do? I have been wiping the bed down with acetone but the wolfbite still forms into droplets instead of spreading nicely, I might try some Ajax glass cleaner tonight and see if that helps.
     
  20. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Um, hot water actually. Was I supposed to do more?
     

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