Volcano thermal runaway: 100% successful trial

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by R Design, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Since fitting volcano block 24hrs ago been unable to get the fan above 25%.

    Just fitted a single sheet of Kapton film, with a hole cut for the nozzle and two "legs" which are held with crocodile clips to the wiring of the printhead.

    Took the fan rapidly up to 70% with no difficulties. Could have gone further but got bored coaxing buggy Marlin (that resets the nozzle temperature downwards each time you set the fan in the control menu because the Tune menu doesn't work.... Sigh.).

    Strong sense that this is both the necessary and the sufficient solution.

    btw. Kapton film is perhaps more rare than Kapton tape - and certainly more expensive - but I happened to have some lying around as a result of an aborted attempt to make solder mask stencils with a lasercutter. It's advantage here is it's just a bit stiffer and so makes a nice flexible plane that seems to holditself in place when attached only at one end. IMG_0160.jpg IMG_0151.jpg IMG_0154.jpg IMG_0152.jpg IMG_0159.jpg IMG_0160.jpg
     
    #1 R Design, Mar 25, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
    mike01hu and Mike Kelly like this.
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Nice work. For a second I was curious why you used kapton with printing on it... till i figured out it was a reflection.

    What works well is just coating the block in kapton tape, or even better some ceramic tape secured with kapton. Keeps the block more thermally stable.
     
  3. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Having seen what Richrap had done, I'd have copied if I had some tape.

    However deflecting the air does not merely "help" but - unsurprisingly with hindsight - to 100% eliminate the problem.

    Also it's easy to unclip for nozzle changes.

    Really this is just a datapoint for somebody who is designing fan ducts....
     
    #3 R Design, Mar 26, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2016
  4. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    That's a neat solution, as it addresses another problem that I hinted at elsewhere, that of reducing the effect of deflected warm air from the model cooling fans such that it is kept away from the heat break, heat sink and fan, allowing the heat sink fan to be more effective and reducing the possibility of jams.
     
  5. Robert James Rudzek

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    Sorry.... I'm fairly new to 3d printing...

    But I also have the Volcano.

    I've been having some pretty insane issues with attempting to figure out heat and cooling between the nozzle, bed, and fan...

    Could you explain to me what this Kapton Film is doing and it's benefits?

    Am I just losing a bunch of cooling power from my big fan by having it just roll right into the heat break and it's effecting my print quality?
     
  6. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    People seem to have a problem with the Parts Fan (the big one) cooling off the Volcano heater block too aggressively.

    In my case I'd get Thermal Runaway (computer shuts everything down because it thinks "I'm heating, yet it's cooling: there must be a catastrophic problem!") beyond 25% fan, no matter how careful I was. (Mind you, I have not yet calibrated PID - see other threads.)

    The solution here was a simple deflector running from the top of the parts fan underneath the heater block (hole for nozzle) and up the other side. It barely touches the heater block (just two edges) and immediately stopped the cooling related problems I was having.

    Have been printing happily like this but clearly a temporary solution.

    This is what somebody much cleverer is doing: http://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/dual-volcanoes.908/
     

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