the x,y,z movement isn't smooth, it's jerky, and loud, bed leveling doesn't work, homing doesn't work process obviously doesn't work. It's a dual direct, with updated firmware with Volcano hardened nozzles. Voltage on stepper drivers tops out at .5 before going to .01, I've tried tuning it closer to the .55 recommended. I finally did fix all the temp errors new rumba and fried PT100s. Any tips, thoughts or links to modded firmware that may fix the issue would be appreciated. I've gone through the setting up and wiring more times than I care to count, but progress is being made!
Is movement smooth when you move it by hand? I recall how horrible mine was before I went through the tramming process and I was actually amazed in the end how smooth it became from very small adjustments.
Movement is smooth by hand, in all directions, the Z axis seems to move normally. But the printer tries to home the X axis in the opposite direction, and the printer doesn't respond to the end stops, the motors try to keep pushing the head for a little bit, and the X and Y axis movements aren't smooth, and it's with the motors not the rods, or cables. The Z axis refuses to stop moving upwards, and I have to unplug the printer to get it to stop trying to force the Z axis up. I've not been able to level, autohome or calibrate anything. Maybe try re-flashing? and again, the max voltage my stepper drivers will go before going to zero is .48 to .5 vs the .55 to .6V as described. Also smoked and fried the Z stepper driver which was weird, and am using a temporary replacement. Just wanting to get this thing up and running, since having it since around July 2016, or August 2016 and still just getting it powered on, and finally displaying temps, and heating up due to all the trouble shooting and issues. Frankly, I'm about ready to print out the BigBox Single parts and re-flash the rumba and see if it makes things easier, or I'm gonna try to sell the printer or scrap it for parts since I'm probably past the return or exchange stage. Just not sure what I'm missing, I've modded my Robo 3D R1 Plus' into dual bowden, overhauled them with new aftermarket parts without any issues.
Stepper Driver instructions in the build manual say to set steppers at .55-.6v and the steppers on the same multimeter setting, run/move the motors perfect at .05V which is a huge difference in the amount of voltage... this might want to be addressed.
All my steppers are at 0.56 or 0.57. I just checked them the other day to see if they'd drifted off after what must be hundreds of hours of printing. They hadn't moved one bit. If X is moving in the wrong direction, seems clear that something is back to front, either in the way you've connected it in the wiring you received. I think that did happen to one other person at least.
I just doubled checked my voltage on the steppers, and again it's correct, the level of voltage the instructions was too much. X moves normally during LCD commands, but with auto home, it doesn't, and Z axis doesn't respond to the IR Sensor. I'll try re flashing the rumba too see if that helps or solves my issues.
Some have found that the IR sensor doesn't seem to work with their bed as well as others, and some have spoken of the white grid affecting the IR readings. I've never had this issue, but perhaps my homing position is just luckily set the center of a black square. If your X isn't moving in the right direction during autohome, but works OK with the LCD, it almost sounds as if you've got the X flipped. Would be good for you to take and attach some photos of the extruder over the bed along with a picture of the LCD corresponding to that bed position. For reference, X=0, Y=0 should be at the front left of the bed, with X increasing to the right and Y increasing to the back. I think we use a flipped Y axis as the S3D profile I have, built from the originally supplied by E3D, has that box checked. I'm guessing if you haven't got everything commissioned yet, you don't have a pi installed in there? If you do, I'd recommend looking for toharas Bigbox flasher for flashing the Rumba as it'll make it much faster to alter and recompile Marlin variables to your needs.
I have a Pi, but won't be using it. I've never been able to get octopi to work wirelessly. So I use astro print, for remote prints after running things through S3D on my other printers. IR works now, axis travel is smooth, auto home doesn't work on X axis, it travels correctly, then I get an error it moves too far the opposite direction, and the Z axis clicks for about 3 minutes after it's done moving.
I will say it's not absolutely flawless for me, but work 99% of the time. I'm using a Pi3 with integrated wireless though.
