SOLVED X & Y Zeroing & Bed Leveling - Hybrid Dual 1.1

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by AndyVirus, Jul 27, 2016.

  1. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    Apologies if this is covered in another thread, i have found parts of the answers for what i am about to ask but not the whole process. The documentation is not clear or i am not sharp enough to read between the lines (for this part at least).

    I received my BB Hybrid Dual 1.1 2 weeks ago (July 14th 2016) and managed to get it all built in 2 weekends on and off.

    I am at the point of Zero X & Y.

    I have aligned the right extruder (when viewed from the front) to 0,0 by adjusting the x and y screws (after hours figuring out which extruder needed to be aligned and that explained the screw length in x as did not see that in the guide either but in a post somewhere)

    The Zeroing video in the guide for dual is not for hybrid so and shows the zeroing park the head at 0,0.

    Mine checks Y then X during AutoHome but then goes to 175,100 (from memory) and parks there to do Z. the Left extruder is about 0.5mm from absolute centre (to the right when viewed from the front)
    Is that normal?

    The second issue comes when Bed Levelling as per the guide. My IR Z axis sensor is slightly off the bed when auto levelling im getting some amazing sounds as the bed crashes into the extruders... What is the process to get this so that the IR sensor is on the bed. I am guessing there is some kind of offset going on here as the extruders are only just out as the right extruder is not going to 0,0 as expected but it is obviously traveling too far for the ir sensor. I dont know the exact location of either nozzle as the bed has smashed into them by that point, i c*** myself and switch the whole thing off...

    Im so close to having this working but i just need to know the process for Zeroing X & Y on a Dual Hybrid and what it looks like while doing that. Should it park at 0,0 or in the centre of the bed? Has anyone done the auto bed levelling (or mesh but the guide seems to state you run auto bed leveling first anyway) on a dul hybrid with the ir sensor on the left (which seems like an odd place to put it, is that is issue, should it be on the left or right when viewed from the front?)

    No idea what Firmware I am running, how is that determined also.
    Any help appreciated as I'm pulling my hair out a bit on this last step.

    Andrew
     
  2. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Hi Andrew,

    When launching AutoHome, with default firmware, the IR sensor goes to the middle of the bed.
    What concerns leveling, I have put the '30-50mm piece of GT ribbon' under the sensor and set that fixed. After an auto-home, which brings you to a +2 level on the Z-axis. It should bring your nozzles to about the correct height when you move the Z axis to 0 ---- via Menu-Prepare-Move-0,1mm (or 1mm) -Z axis - change to almost zero (keep your eyes on the nozzles!!!)
    (PS. 10mm is not available in the menu for Z-axis movement)

    Just a reminder, don't forget to change your Z-steps to 400.

    Your last question is a good one, as I'm also wondering if there is a method to determine the different versions (E3D vs Old revisions from Alex9779 and the latest and greatest release)

    Regards,
    T.

    Extra info : Under the menu control, you can see that the Z-offset is at -2. I use this to 'play' with height level, when it becomes warmer or colder in my 'garage'. A typical issue for some people.
     
  3. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Easies and exact way is to connect a terminal to the box, OctoPrint or a different host application and look at the output the box send when you connect.
    The out put of my current installed firmware looks like this:
    Code:
    Recv: Marlin 1.1.0-RCBugFix
    Recv: echo: Last Updated: 2016-04-27 12:00 | Author: Alex9779
    Recv: Compiled: Jul 27 2016
    Recv: echo: Free Memory: 3986  PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
    Recv: echo:V24 stored settings retrieved (398 bytes)
    Recv: echo:Steps per unit:
    Recv: echo:  M92 X160.00 Y180.00 Z1600.00 E417.50
    Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
    Recv: echo:  M203 X150.00 Y150.00 Z6.00 E25.00
    Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
    Recv: echo:  M201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E5000
    Recv: echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel
    Recv: echo:  M204 P1000.00 R3000.00 T1000.00
    Recv: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),  E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
    Recv: echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X8.00 Z0.40 E5.00
    Recv: echo:Home offset (mm)
    Recv: echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
    Recv: Mesh bed leveling:
    Recv: echo:  M420 S1 X3 Y3
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X1 Y1 Z2.15000
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X2 Y1 Z1.95000
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X3 Y1 Z1.97500
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X1 Y2 Z2.22500
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X2 Y2 Z2.00000
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X3 Y2 Z2.05000
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X1 Y3 Z2.20000
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X2 Y3 Z1.95000
    Recv: echo:  G29 S3 X3 Y3 Z2.02500
    Recv: echo:Material heatup parameters:
    Recv: echo:  M145 S0 H200 B60 F0
    Recv: echo:  M145 S1 H240 B90 F0
    Recv: echo:PID settings:
    Recv: echo:  M301 P24.00 I1.80 D79.10 C100.00 L20
    Recv: echo:  M304 P170.70 I32.80 D222.50
    Recv: echo:Filament settings: Disabled
    Recv: echo:  M200 D3.00
    Recv: echo:  M200 T1 D3.00
    Recv: echo:  M200 D0
    Recv: echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
    Recv: echo:  M851 Z0.00
    Recv: ok
    Changing monitoring state from 'Connecting' to 'Operational'
    Send: N0 M110 N0*125
    Recv: ok
    Send: M21
    Recv: ok
    Send: M117 OctoPrint connected
    Recv: ok
    Send: M115
    Recv: FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin 1.1.0-RCBugFix1.1.0-RCBugFix SOURCE_CODE_URL:https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:BigBox Dual Titan EXTRUDER_COUNT:2 UUID:cede2a2f-41a2-4748-9b12-c55c62f367ff
    Recv: ok
    First three lines are pretty unique if you use mine... I will have a look at the firmware I build to make the distinguishable...
     
  4. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Complied today? OMG, you also run @ the bleeding edge side.
    Thanks for the info @Alex9779
     
  5. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the answers!

    So AutoHome question has been answered and how to determine firmware version. The Auto Level question is my main issue so ill add more detail based on the above from TimV:

    I have set the Z Axis to 400 steps. Took a while to figure out if i had the correct pitch lead screws but i did figure it in the end.
    I did the step for setting the IR sensor by putting the strip of GT ribbon under the sensor, pressing down on the sensor casing and tightening the bolts. Auto Homing seems to be working pretty much as it should do on all axis with out crashing into the nozzels on Z.

    When i do the bed levelling however it moves to the front right (if i remember correctly, im at work at the mo) and adjusts z azis fine, it then moves to the left and thats when it adjusts z and crashes into the nozels. Not sure how to stop it doing that. This is the bit that is killing me (to be melodramatic). Its as if the ir sensor is 5mm to far to the left of the left extruder that during x and y stop trigger tuning is bang on 0,0 as far as i can see. The IR sensor can not see the bed and ramps up strait into the nozels and never stops trying making a woderrful noise that fills you with joy :)

    Have i missed a step that sets the Z to a maximum hight, missed a step that calulates the left/right offset for hybrid nozels so that the left nozel during auto level stops bang on 0,0 or ... im not sure of or... I must have done/missed something i just cant figure out what as for hybrid it is not crystal clear. How does it determine the distance between right and left nozel if i am setting the right nozel on 0,0 during x and y zeroing?

    Thanks for your help so far! Really appreciate it. Id crack on with trail and error till i get it right but it does seem like i will break something here if i do that in this case.
     
  6. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    OK so I am home. I have ran auto home again and after it thinks that it is at 175,100 when in reality it is at 157,100 (or there abouts) so now im stumped as i expect this is why it is crashing into the bed as the ir sensor is off by about 18. How do i adjust so that the right nozel is at X 175? I am positive i have the zeroing spot on with the x and y trigger stops.
     
    #6 AndyVirus, Jul 27, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2016
  7. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    ??? Your right nozzle needs to be able to go to 0,0 when the endstops trigger.
    And when auto homed, it should sit at 150 (IR sensor) + X (distance IR sensor to left nozzle) + 38 (distance estimated between Left and right nozzle)
    And when autohomed the heights between bed and nozzle should be 2 (homing position of Z (see display) + a very little bit (something like a visite card)
    Perhaps make some pictures, as they say more than a thousand words in 1 shot.

    Much luck!
    T.
     
  8. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    Right nozel is able to reach 0,0 when the end stop triggers.

    My screen shows that it sits at 175,100 after homed but see the photo, the IR sensor is sitting about 132,100. Y axis seems to be spot on after homing, its just X is not matching where the screen thinks it is.

    I found this other thread about resetting to fail safe defaults to reset the x and y axes :https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/re-setting-the-x-and-y-axes.1765/ but im hoping i dont have to do that as i dont want to go through changing the zstep from 1600 to 400 again as it takes forever.
    IMG_0416.JPG IMG_0420.jpg
     
  9. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Here is my position when homed.
    Can you check if you have used the right pulleys?
     
  10. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    Ill check tonight. I assume you mean the cog on the motor when you say pulley? I will check it again but the extruders all move smooth enough and to all extremes of x and y (triggers permitting). I now wonder if the belt is "slightly" slipping but seems odd it reverts to exactly the same spot every time with no variation but will check the x axis belt tension again tonight.
     
  11. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Belt cannot slip, as it has teeth. It that would jump teeth, you would have an enormous slack on the belt.
    Again, with the difference of 'getting to 132 and coming back to 0) means you have not enough movement, meaning too small pulley.
    And looking at the wiki, be sure, you wouldn't be the first one : http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Big...ep_Assembly_Process#.288.1.29_X-Carriage_Belt
    Yet another reason why I think you may have the wrong pulley there : 16T is too small, so you miss about 20%.

    Hope this helps you out
    Regards
    T.
     
  12. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    Ah ok! Ill lay money on your right now! I did not know that they had different number of teeth! (did not see that in the bill of materials). Ill take a look at what the heck i have done with the 20T.

    Ill report back once this most likely fixes it.

    Andrew
     
  13. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    Make sure to use the...... 20T GT2 ......and not the smaller Y-Axis 16T GT2 equivalent.

    CHECK AGAIN YOU HAVE THE ....20T GT2..... IT IS A COMMON MISTAKE TO GET THESE THE WRONG WAY ROUND.

    REPEAT......USE THE 20T GT2.....

    I saw this and though it was on about the motor... :) It all makes sense "now" but as the diagram marks part 5 as GT2-20T-5ID not 20T-GT2-5ID it was not immediately obvious, it is "now"... Seems like a silly statement but putting the word Pulley or referencing part "5" in the warning in the build guide would have made this obvious.

    Will report back once home and checked that i have actually made this mistake and hopefully corrected it.
     
  14. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Really makes me wonder what you did with the 16 elsewhere. (If we got it right and you put the wrong pulley)
     
  15. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    That makes 2 of us then! Ill be able to say in a couple of hours but ill be checking them all now i know they have different numbers of teeth.
     
  16. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    OK so no, i used the T20 on the X Axis and T16 on the Y Axis. I remember now that the belt looked odd so i swapped the smaller one on the X Axis for the larger one, so while i did not know they were T16 and T20 i had put the correct ones on the correct motors... Damn it or Yay depends how you look at it.

    I did what i dreaded and Loaded Failsafe and boom, autohome homes to the correct place.... So now to re-check calibration after reset and hopefully i have a working printer...

    Thanks for your help!
     
  17. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    Also to answer (in a less accurate way) my own question, on the LCD screen when you turn the BB on, it says RC6 so thats an quick and dirty way to figure out what version of the firmware your running (may not work for minor version of course)
     
  18. TimV

    TimV Well-Known Member

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    Great that it solved your issue

    Concerning the version, it's not that 'versioning' I was looking for. I was looking for the "configured version by" version
    anyway solved and sorted,... next
     

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