Y axis drifting while printing. (Was solved... I thought)

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Miasmictruth, May 4, 2016.

  1. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    OK once again, no pullies have slipped the shaft is marked I don't know how many more ways I can check the same thing.

    So as recap

    I have check the grub screws twice
    I checked the belts
    I Recommissioned the entire XY assembly and reapplied loctite
    Marked the pullies.
    I swapped drivers
    I swapped bearings
    I greased the rods
    I Added heat sinks

    Any other ideas I am getting tired of this..

    IMG_20160507_174333.jpg IMG_20160507_174303.jpg
     
  2. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    I have heard of prints drifting/shifting whatever you want to call it due to wear in the smooth rods, in this case they were not hardened (so cheaper) and the ball bearings in the linear bearings wore grooves in (and caught in) the rods which caused the prints to shift part way through the print.

    If you had prints working ok before you heard the noises you mentioned, then the noises started and the prints got the shift effect then this would tie in. It would not exactly explain the fault occurring at exactly the same point in the print, unless the problem was with the Z axis rod(s). Even if the rods appear smooth it could be a problem inside the bearings, but very odd if it happened at the same point each time.

    If the X-carriage does not move smoothly or the bed does not and either of these bind (only real way to find out is by removing the drive belts in the X and Y direction and disengaging the threaded rods in the Z), then going through the whole alignment process as per the build WiKi may help so that everything runs smooth. If you can't get things to run smoothly then as long as the rods are not damaged then replacing the linear bearings may fix the problem. Movement should be totally smooth before attaching belts and threaded rods.

    In replacing you should check that the bearings run smoothly on the rods before attaching the X-Carriage and the bed.

    EDIT: If things (rods and bearings) are not running smoothly then the motors and drivers on the Rumba will have to work harder, which could account for the increased temperature you mentioned.
     
  3. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Everything is smooth and there is no more odd noises, there is no visbale damage to the rods and the new bearings are higher end misumi.

    I went through all the new bearings and found the ones that glided the soothest..

    It's only roughly the same layer not exactly, it will be going strong for about 2cm then shifts.
     
  4. orcinus

    orcinus Well-Known Member

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    Swap X and Y cables.
    Print will end up transposed, but never mind that - see if the skips are still on the same axis.

    If yes, problem is either mechanical or the stepper.
    If not, problem is electrical, or software.
     
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  5. EpicFail

    EpicFail Active Member

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    Glass Bed, Shifting?
     
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  6. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    Is it the same item you are trying to print each time?

    If it is can you share it as a .stl file and let someone else try printing it?


    Probably asked before but have you checked the stepper voltages on the Rumba? It's possible that if they are just on the limit that once they get warm they start to miss steps etc.
     
    #26 Old_Tafr, May 8, 2016
    Last edited: May 8, 2016
  7. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Did you tune your stepper drivers? What are the voltage readings?
     
  8. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Yes, it is the same file I can try to upload it later, thanks.

    As to the stepper voltages I had then tuned to values that at @elmoret uses, his Y axis is at I think .25ish mine was at .3ish this has been working great for weeks

    However after this started happening I upped the voltage to about .47 and made no difference, I could go higher but I don't understand why I should have to as the other voltage had been fine.

    I am going to try and crate a slic3r profile for XT and try reslicing the print that way. If that doesn't work I will try swapping the X and the Y

    Edit: the XY swap should probably be a differnt firmware or do you think it would be and wouldn't cause damage to the printer?
     
  9. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Nope not the glass bed, if it slide that much it would pop all the clips and create a much bigger disaster.

    The print quality looks great except for the shifting so I am not too sure the nozzel is catching on the print but its possible I guess.
     
  10. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    I just reread your post, the stl is just the lower part of 1.1 titan carriage, not modification. I am using the same sliced code I haven't resliced it to keep consistency. Would you like the gcode ornjust the stl.

    I printed a whole tray of parts including this one just before this happened. I am trying to reprint just this piece it as the first one wrapped, fixed the warping issue and then this..
     
  11. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    Are we referring to the same "tuning" (adjusting) of stepper drivers as here.. >

    http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Big...p_Assembly_Process#Tuning_The_Stepper_Drivers

    "Tuning The Stepper Drivers"

    The voltages are all 0.55 to 0.60 so your voltages may be too low.

    If we are talking about the same thing (BigBox with Rumba?) then I would really go through the adjusting process and set everything to the values in the build manual.
     
    #31 Old_Tafr, May 8, 2016
    Last edited: May 8, 2016
  12. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    I know the wiki says that, elmoret is a very seasons 3d printing individual and runs filastruder.com aside from that those stepper voltages have been working for weeks, even after I turned Y up its not working any better. I can keep Turning it up but I doubt that will have much impact.
     
  13. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    This is a process of elimination, if the voltages are set to the values suggested by E3D then that is one more thing removed from the equation.

    Most people use the voltages suggested by e3d without a problem so I don't think there is a problem using them, if there is it would be useful if you could let people know.
     
  14. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    It really should be 0.5V to 0.6V.
     
  15. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Print started at 0.576V it generally fails in 1.5-2 hours will update then.

    If everything is fine will update once the print finishes
     
  16. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Never mind.. apparently my Z is suddenly out of want and ground the nozzel into the bed so no I have to reapply the bed coating
     
  17. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    While I wait for the coating to dry, this is why I had my steppers at a different voltages

    This is from thread http://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/jerky-xy-motion.1047/page-2
    Post #30
     
  18. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I tried the lower on the Y axis too but with no success.

    IMHO it could not be the slicer if the path view does not show any anomalies.
    From what I know shifting layers are either loose pulleys, slipping belts or skipped/missed motor steps..m
    You already eliminated the pulleys. I think your belts are fine too, you would notice that much earlier.
    All you write points me to a motor problem. Just try the 0.55-0.60V...
     
  19. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Ok first layer is now going down perfectly I will try to update on the progress of the print at in 2 hours, 2:30 EST

    Y voltage is now at .576, thanks again for all your suggestions.
     
  20. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    There is a slight anomaly I cant get rid of the in the sliced code but it gets by that no issue. On one of the early layers layers around 3-5 it trys to partially fill in the place where the belts mount and where the screws are at roughly 45 degrees. This is when slicing with S3D, aside from that 1 layer everything looks normal.

    Here is the GCODE for anyone interested
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByHvOzXeeoN3WEVNU1dNV2VuRUU

    Here is the STL which is provided in the 1.1 upgrade files no modifucations
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByHvOzXeeoN3LUpUYWd1VTBfVzA
     

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