I thought I had my Z banding cured after installing steppers with integrated leadscrews and anti-backlash nuts, but ran into this with a tall print: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ba2Kwrr98WkhrnOM2 Most of the pics show the 300mm tall tap handle that experienced some bad banding in the last 25% or so of the print. I had the part printing in upper left corner of the bed near the ooze wiper(to minimize travel distances). I think what I'm seeing is movement due mainly to the height of the part and its distance from the center of the bed. I added some weight on the bed opposite the part to fix the weight imbalance but that didn't seem to help. I think what I'm seeing is the slop/clearance in the linear bearings which allows for considerable angular play in the bed. It's easy enough to see by just pushing down on y=0 edge of the bed. This print was done with the Prometheus dual extrusion system and was about 32hr total with all the tool changes, so I wasn't happy to see these lines so far into the print. I printed a couple tall test prints immediately after the handle finished and they looked OK, so I guess the lesson learned was to center my prints. The part had a small base with brim, but the flex appeared to be mostly in the bed and not in the part itself. In the album above, you can see a grey colored build. That came out very nice and didn't show banding anywhere near what I saw on the tap handle. I also printed a 100mm diameter cylinder at 300mm height in vase mode and it printed beautifully. So... I was just curious what others' experiences were and hoping to understand the limitations of the BigBox design a bit better. I'm helping a local Makerspace build a CoreXY extrusion frame printer that will have 3 or 4 leadscrews driven by one stepper and hoping the extra leadscrews will help stabilize the bed better at the higher z positions. I realize we'll have to be quite accurate with the frame to avoid binding but it should be possible.